Winter is coming

Winter walking can be a fantastic experience, but it does require a bit more specialist gear and some knowledge of winter skills. Moving on frozen terrain or in fresh snow is very different to hiking on paths, and poses technical as well as navigational challenges. We covered the essential winter kit list in one of our previous blog posts. Here, we will talk about some technical aspects of how to choose the right winter gear (boots, crampons and ice axe) for your next adventure, and how to stay safe in the hills.

Types of mountaineering boots

Mountaineering boots come in 3 main categories; B1, B2 and B3. These vary in boot stiffness and application. B1 boots are suitable for winter walking. Usually made from leather with a waterproof liner, they have a semi-stiff mid-sole that supports walking crampons, with a flat heal and aggressive lugs in the sole, and rubber protection at the front of the boot and sometimes up the sides. They are compatible with C1 crampons only and do not have clips for mountaineering crampons. B2 boots are much stiffer than B1. They are made either from reinforced thick leather or synthetics with a waterproof liner, they are more insulated and their soles have aggressive lugs. The rubber protection on the front and sides of the boot reaches higher than on B1 boots offering more protection. They take C2 or C1 crampons and are suitable for winter walking, glacial travel and easy to mid climbs. B3 boots are fully stiff boots used for ice climbing and glacial ascents, they are usually made form plastic. They are fully rigid and quite heavy, whilst walking in them is possible, they are best suited for the front pointing and step kicking in steep terrain. They come with a heel clip and a toe bar for easy crampon attachment and take C3 crampons.

Types of crampons

When buying crampons, don't worry about the size. All crampons are adjustable and come with anti-balling plates to prevent snow building upon the underside of the crampon. C1 crampons are flexible walking crampons, usually attached to the boots with straps. They have 8-10 points and are compatible with B1 and B2 boots. C2 crampons have longer teeth, usually 10-12 of them, and usually come with a heel clip or cradle for a more secure attachment, and straps. The pointy front teeth help with steeper walking, and easy to mid-climbs. They are compatible with B2 and B3 boots, B1 boots are too flexible and may damage them. C3 crampons are winter climbing crampons that are fully rigid and used in technical climbing. they are compatible with B3 boots only and should not be used for walking.

Types of ice axes

Similar to the boots and crampons, the choice of an ice axe also depends on the proposed application. Ice axes vary in size and shape depending on their purpose. For example, walking axes tend to be longer and more straight whereas the climbing axes are often shorter and curved. The modern modular axes have replaceable adze/hammer ends that can be replaced when they are worn out or when needed. Most ice axes come with leashes which ensure that you don't lose your axe on the hill. The leash attaches to your wrist through a loop and is secured to the top of the shaft. In an emergency the leash can also take some weight, but you have to be able to release yourself as well, which is why most leashes have adjustable cuffs, and climbing axe leashes often feature a release clip.

Walking axes are used for hiking in winter, to provide more stability and help you self-arrest in case of a fall. You can also use the adze part of your axe to dig steps in frozen snow and use the pick for extra security when you stop. Walking axes are 50-70cm long and come with a straight shaft. Your axe should be shorter than your leg, as you will always hold it in your uphill hand. When you hold the axe in your hand, standing in a relaxed position with the axe in your hand and the adze facing forward, the base spike of the axe should be just (less than 1") above your ankle. Walking axes are more than sufficient for walking the English and Welsh fells and for Munro bagging in Scotland. They are also fine for glacier crossings and non-technical climbs. If you would like to venture higher, you may need the next level up.
Alpine axes still come with a relatively straight shaft but they curve a little in their upper part. The straight lower part helps with walking, and the curve gives the axe better swing when you have to secure it in the technical terrain. These axes are used for Scottish grade II and III winter climbs, and Alpine routes up to the AD difficulty. The Alpine axes are slightly shorter than the regular walking axes to make them easier to use in climbing mode, and usually 50-60cm long.
Technical ice axes are axes that are used for technical ascents and ice climbs and can be used for Scottish climbs of grade III and IV. They usually come in pairs as they are your vital attachment points on the ice wall. They are much shorter and fully curved. Their heads come with an adze or a hammer end, and it is advised to carry one of each, as you may need the adze to cut steps and holds, and extract ice screws, and the hammer to bash protection into the cracks and ice.
Offset handle ice axes are used for vertical ascents and technical climbing, climbing ice falls, and as dry tooling axes. They are similar to the technical ice axes but offer better grip and wrist position. They don't come with an adze which in a vertical ascent may accidentally cause damage, instead they have a minimal hammer end. They are always used as a pair.

Other equipment worth taking

There are a few more bits of kit that are worth taking on your winter adventure, especially if you are planning to embark on it on your own. If you do go somewhere on your own, make sure to tell someone where you are planning to walk and what time you are planning to be back- this will help trigger the Mountain Rescue alert if you do not return.

Avalanche transceiver. The Scottish avalanche service (https://www.sais.gov.uk/) reports on the avalanche risk in all Scottish mountains throughout winter. Make sure that you check the SAIS website before going out on a winter hike in Scotland. It may save your life, or at the very least save you from an unpleasant adventure. Avalanche transceivers are devices that should be worn if you are venturing into the backcountry, off the beaten track and into avalanche risk areas. They are emergency locator beacons, and operate at 457 kHz to help find people buried under snow. They can be hired in most sport shops in the Scottish Highlands.
Avalanche probe and shovel. Avalanche probe is a foldable metal stick, that is used to probe the avalanche debris and find the victims. Avalanche shovel is foldable too and used to dig the victims out after an avalanche. These should be taken if you are venturing into the backcountry for example if you are going ski touring off-piste.
Helmet. Whilst not necessary for basic winter walking, if you are venturing somewhere more technical where there is a risk of a fall, or planning to travel at speed (skiing for example) always wear a helmet, it can save your life.
Satellite phone is an essential bit of kit if you are venturing out somewhere remote. These phones connect to the network by radio link through satellites orbiting the Earth instead of terrestrial cell sites, and allow you to send messages from pretty much anywhere on the planet. If you are on a group walk, it is likely that your leader will have one on them. If you are venturing out alone for the day and don't need to own one, these can be hired out for the day in many outdoor shops.
Set up your phone. Before you set off, make sure that your mobile phone is fully charged, take an emergency power bank, and set up your phone so that you can send an emergency SMS (https://www.emergencysms.net/). This service is free, you only need to do it once, and it may save your life. It will allow you to send an emergency message to 999 when there may not be enough signal to call them.
Emergency shelter. If you get caught out and need to wait for the Mountain Rescue, an emergency shelter or a body bag will help you keep warm and shield you from the element. They are also very handy shelters for stops during the walk if the weather is particularly inclement, as they pop up and pack away easily. On a group walk, the leader will usually carry a multi person (usually 4 or 8 ) emergency shelter.
Headtorch is an essential piece of gear in the winter months when the days are much shorter. Even if you plan your day with plenty of buffer, unexpected things can happen, so always have a headtorch (and spare batteries) with you just in case.

What is self-arrest?

Self-arrest is a technique used to stop yourself if you have fallen and you are sliding down a snowy slope. If used correctly, your ice axe is designed to help you stop. During the fall, you drive the head of the ice axe into the snow and use your body weight to make it dig into the slope and help you stop.

Here's a really good video by Glenmore Lodge explaining how to do it: